Rialto

If you are at a restaurant where the chef just wants to share an experience, share what she knows, expand what you know, and then personally make sure she did her job, you should go again and again. Rialto is a place of trust and love between patron and owner.

Last night I was treated to a dinner at Rialto by SM. This is classic Cambridge eating. An old staple of the Charles Hotel, Rialto is the chef, Jody Adams. The food is new Italian. The staff is kind, welcoming and efficient. She features a region of the country in seasonally evolving Prix Fixe menus in addition to a regular and changing menu. Our dinner included the following:

Gnocchi with cheese and truffles,
Wild boar prosciutto with cheese and greens,
Bone Marrow with Saffron Risotto,
Pork Medallions with sweet potatoes and almonds,
Berkshire Veal Steak with mashed potatoes wrapped in red onion
Honey Ricotta cheesecake with pine nuts, figs, golden raisins and grappa
Cocoa Hazelnut meringues with a coffee (or mocha) pudding, cream, and a shot of decaf espresso to drizzle over it.

All of this food was good. And I mean that in the way that Greek philosophers used “the good” to describe life’s purpose. I was satisfied from beginning to end. The joy of this meal was not in adventurous flavors but in quality.

The highlights were the bone marrow and the cheesecake.

This was the first time that we had ever had bone marrow. Not sure how to approach it or eat it, we scraped a bit off the bone with ease. The flavor completely filled our mouths many time over while feeling like there was nothing in there. The saffron risotto it was served with was very salty but a welcomed compliment and good on its own.

As for the cheesecake, I was skeptical. I rarely feel like eating cheesecake after a big meal. This cake however, was light with a delicate texture without being whimpy. The honey was a gentle sweetness that enhanced the ethereal and conforting feel of the dessert. The grappa was also not as invasive as it had sounded to me. I don't think I can eat a heavy, dense cheesecake again. This experience changed my view of cheesecake for the better, while simultaneously probably ruining most other cheesecakes in my future.

Here is the thing of this restaurant: As we took our time finishing our wine and dessert, Jody Adams stopped by our table. She really wanted to know if we were having a good time. I think our calm yet elated state told her enough about our time at her restaurant, however, we mentioned that she also gave us the new experience of bone marrow.

She responded, "I think it is really an overlooked thing, that is why we give you such a generous portion." Thank you for thinking of us, Ms. Adams.

www.rialto-restaurant.com