Tuesday, June 9, 2009

The fat of the matter is...

This all started when I got biscuit anxiety at work. The dough was crumbly, dry and not coming together. I thought I had lost my touch. Finally, I was alerted that we got cream for a different company and the milk fat was 40% in this brand of heavy cream instead of the typical 35%.

I started wondering about what all of this means... Of course, this meant pumping KK for all that she knows on the matter and then she lent me her book, "Starting with Ingredients, Baking," by Aliza Green. I've learned a lot and am ready to share.

Here are some basic definitions:

Half and Half is 10-18 % fat.
Light Cream is 18-30% fat.
Whipping cream is 30-36% fat.
Heavy cream is over 36% fat.
extra-heavy cream is 40% fat. (interesting to try an ice cream with this one...)

Creme fraiche is heavy cream ripened with a bacterial culture.

Sour Cream is a light cream ripened by a bacteria that thickens it.

Buttermilk is the left over liquid when you make butter and consequently is very low in fat or has none at all.

Speaking of butter...

American butter is 80% clear yellow butterfat, 18% water 2% milk solids

While European butter contains up to 86% butterfat and much less moisture.
- the extra fat means flakier and richer baked goods and that it doesn't burn as easily.

Plugra is the most common brand of European butter and can be found even at the Trader Joe's.
This butter is obviously more expensive. Everything still comes out wonderfully with regular American butter. Save the European butter for when you really want an edge (or money is no object and you insist on living the most decadent high fat content life possible). If you are going to splurge on it, wait till you are making a puff pastry, or maybe more likely, a pie crust. Your pie will have a flakier, nuttier and easier to work with crust.

If you are still interested in butter facts, read on!

I have always wondered why it says sweet cream on most of the butter I buy. The sweet cream label signifies that it is made from pasteurized cream and can be salted or unsalted. Butter used to be made from soured milk so that there would be more butterfat.

If sex and food are not already linked in your mind, maybe this will help. If you are wanting to make butter and use proper terminology, you churn cream or milk until the butter comes.

You'll need 21 pounds of cow's milk to make 1 pound of butter! Now, I am curious about sheep's milk butter.

Next time I make a crust I am going to try a european butter and I am going to ask around if the butter would make a noticeable difference in a shortbread recipe with which I recently fell in love.

Thank you KK and Aliza Green for all the Information!

5 comments:

  1. can you tell me about the icelandic butter that I see in the Whole Foods?

    This makes me want to make pie crust.

    maybe a pie crust experiment with different butters. Sort of like america's test kitchen, but in Cambridge (or JP...)

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  2. Interesting! I use Kerry Gold Butter, from Ireland, I wonder what that has???
    Also I would love to have that shortbread recipe, shortbread is my favorite!

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  3. Oh, pie pie pie!

    We must do some experiments. This will also include the recipe of your youth!

    Summer fruit here we come!

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  4. Rachel!

    send me your address and I will put the recipe in the mail. It is from Tartine that bakery in San Francisco. I almost would take a trip out west just to go there!

    As for Irish Butter, I don't know. I read that it was originally buried in bogs and developed a strong and interesting flavor while being preserved. Do you taste or feel any difference with it?

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  5. Dear Chloe--

    J. and I just referred to this very post.

    (I recalled reading it several months ago, you see.)

    We have some fine organic buttermilk that needs to be used, so J. is planning to make some of her spectacular oatmeal buttermilk pancakes this AM. (Please inquire if interested in the recipe--OB p-cakes are one of my newest loves.)

    Anyway, I noted that I had read on this very .blog that buttermilk has the lowest fat content of all liquid dairy products.

    I just completed a morning reading of your "Fat Facts" while waiting for our Veteran's Day tea to steep, and we wanted to take the opportunity to thank yor for all of the fascinating educational information regarding the fat content of aforenoted liquid dairy products.

    Brilliant.

    Love,
    C.S.-C. and J.

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